Nestled on the third floor of The Cosmopolitan, you’ll find a classy little pawn shop with glass-front cases stocked with everything from tricked-out sneakers to jewelry, watches and purses. Gorgeous guitars are arrayed on the back wall, and an unassuming door invites you to experience even more once you pass through. Inside, you’ll find not a warehouse of items, but a treasure trove of tasty treats.
Beauty & Essex, a collaboration of the Tao Group and chef/partner Chris Santos, consists in Vegas of several plush dining rooms (they’ve been termed jewel boxes, and that’s not far off) and a lively bar perfect for a cocktail hour or dinner with friends. Speaking of cocktails, you’ll surely want to indulge, as twists on the classic score big on flavor. The Emerald gimlet mixes Absolut Elyx vodka with basil and cold-pressed lime, while the Pink Panther combines Bombay Sapphire gin and St-Germain liqueur with pink peppercorn and cold-pressed lemon. They are really pretty, and certainly taste great! If you’re into barrel-aged drinks, you may want to try The White Whale—Ilegal mezcal, Dolin Blanc vermouth, Cocchi Americano, honeysuckle and peppercorn. There are also several nonalcoholic options as well.
For your apps, let the size of your party be your guide. The raw bar features a huge offering in Pearls of the Sea, with enough oysters, crab, shrimp cocktails and lobster to satisfy everyone. But smaller parties may prefer yellowtail aguachile with cucumber and avocado mousse or tuna poke wonton tacos—those tacos make for a supremely interesting bite, or so I am told.
I’d recommend the deep dish focaccia bites for vegetarians; fresh mozzarella, a San Marzano tomato sauce and a spicy relish will have you dipping back again and again. The steak tartare is served on grilled focaccia with black truffle aioli.
Brown butter scallops
There’s a mix of influences on this menu; you’ll find “Chile Relleno” empanadas, a smooth Mexican Street corn ravioli, Thai-style deep-fried shrimp, chicken meatballs and double-cut pork chops with a port wine glaze. Brown butter scallops come over roasted celery root purée while a spicy Siciliano cavatelli features bay scallop, shrimp and squid. If you are fond of beef, get it here in a Wellington with filet mignon and foie gras mousse, or as a 10-ounce, thick-cut classic filet. If that seems a little small to you, maybe the 38-ounce tomahawk ribeye would be more suitable; in that case, feel free to share.
Dessert has the potential to overshadow those flavors, though. Imagine, if you will, the beauty of a peanut butter cheesecake with chocolate cake and cookie crumbles that goes by the name of Chocolate Peanut Butter Meltdown. It’s kind of accurate. The “les, nyc” doughnuts are definitely an option, too; three dipping sauces makes every bite a new discovery.
The Cosmopolitan, 877.893.2003
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