When the Hard Rock Hotel transformed into Virgin Hotels Las Vegas last year, all eyes were on its restaurant program. After all, it was long a haven for celebrity chefs and larger-than-life personalities, from Kerry Simon to Nobu Matsuhisa. Well, we’re happy to report that the property is still in good hands, with primo dining options top to bottom. Right near the top is Todd English’s Olives, a version of his classic concept that was previously housed at Bellagio. It’s lost nothing in the translation, with an absolutely killer lineup of cuisine and libations.
Fans of the original will immediately appreciate English’s attention to detail in the décor. Dark wood hues beckon you in to relax on green banquettes while a modern pop soundtrack puts you in a good mood. The open kitchen allows you to see all the action if you so choose, but odds are you’ll spend more time admiring the view, which includes the pool.
The wine selection here is without peer, curated by sommelier extraordinaire Bernard Erpicum. The lineup is a reflection of the food itself—Mediterranean regions. It’s highly recommended that you pair your meal with one of these vintages, but don’t sleep on the cocktail menu either, full of originals like Life Is Fresh, a blend of gin, cucumber, purple grapes and simple syrup, served in a martini glass lined with both sugar and cayenne pepper for a taste combination you’ll not soon forget. If you’re looking for something a bit less spicy, the Tiffany is just about perfection, raspberry vodka, crème de cassis, fresh sour mix and fresh raspberries.
As you might expect given the name, mixed olives are a perfect starter, served with orange, fennel and extra virgin oil. Olives also make an appearance on English’s spin on beef carpaccio, although on this version there’s a delightful surprise in the middle: a cake of gorgonzola polenta. This is one starter you’ll be telling your friends back home about.
Everything on English’s menu begs to be sampled. The TE signature Greek salad almost doesn’t need a fork to be enjoyed; its various, ultra-fresh ingredients like whipped feta, pepperoncini gelee, olives, tomato and cucumber ribbons are served on a bed of iceberg and radicchio. Just grab a piece and enjoy! Herb ricotta-stuffed ravioli are served alongside sweet sausage ragu and Parmesan cream. Get a bit of sauce on your fork, dab it on a piece of ravioli, and take your sweet time savoring all those amazing flavors.
Larger entrees are no less impressive.Untouchable veal Parmesan is served in a size that makes it almost resemble a pizza. The tender meat below is smothered with mozzarella, fried basil and “Nona’s ragu.” Classic chicken Milanese looks as good as it tastes, with this version served alongside arugula, Parmesan cream, tomato and lemon vinaigrette. Any of these dishes pairs wonderfully with the grilled asparagus, a thing of beauty served with Parmesan and lemon vinaigrette.
Save room! The banana tiramisu is as nice to eat as it is to look at, a banana cake topped with espresso whipped cream and candied hazelnuts.
Virgin Hotels Las Vegas, 702.693.5000
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